Walk Like An Egyptian

First impressions of Cairo were formed on the trip from airport to hostel and were primarily traffic based. Cars four abreast in each direction on a road only wide enough for two lanes, with every car aggressively carving it's own winding path seemingly unable to stay on any predictable route and merrily beeping it's horn for no discernible purpose. This first impression was generally applicable to everything about Cairo – there is no system but somehow everything works.

I survived the deathrace and was hoping to find sanctuary in my hostel only to be greeted firstly by the oldest lift in the world and as the lift reached the top floor (ping!), stray cats everywhere (they are sacred in Egypt so nobody even attempts to exterminate them). It's an open-air hostel on the top floor of a highrise and them crazy cats roam free covering everything in their sacred shit. But hey, beggars can't be choosers. So onto the room, luckily there were no cats present but it was a bit squiffy, manky holy sheets and rancid pillows. I didn't bring a sleeping bag but I did improvise and pack a single duvet cover for this very situation, and boy am I glad I did! Slept terribly the first night due to both fear of moggies and persistent horn tooting, so it was inconsequential when the call to prayer from the local mosque pierced through at sunrise (4:30). Got up and showered the next day thinking things can't get much worse...

Decided to hit the streets and get my bearings, aware that the Egyptian Museum was close by. Within 20 minutes a 'friendly stranger', Omar, had accosted our fresh faced traveler helpfully showing him the way to said museum. Unfortunately the signs we were passing contradict Omar so when we coincidentally arrive at his shop I find myself with two options: A. Enter and have my money charmed out of my pocket (or worse), or B. Leg it across the aforementioned 8-lane expressway. And that's how I learned to cross the roads in Cairo (or walk like an Egyptian, if you will).

Things have vastly improved since then... the world renowned Egyptian Museum was fascinating, if slightly daunting with over 200,000 artifacts. Too much to tackle alone and tours were too expensive for my budget so I improvised and tagged on the back of the group with the loudest and most flamboyant tour guide. Unfortunately, no cameras were allowed inside so I can't share with you the artistry of King Tut's solid gold burial mask or the royal mummies complete with hair, teeth and fingernails, I can only attest to their impressiveness.

I've also visited the Sphinx, the Pyramids of Giza (largest) and Saqqara (oldest). They are a testament to the engineering brilliance of the Ancient Egyptians and the pyramid of Khufu remains the only surviving member of the seven wonders of the ancient world - quite breathtaking. Although, It can be somewhat hard to revel in their majesty with so many touts and scamsters around, offering everything from papyrus inkings, mock keffiyeh (head-dress) and camel rides. You have to be very firm with them, 'La shukran' seems to work better than 'No thanks' and definitely better than 'Non merci' as I witnessed a powerless Frenchman lifted atop a camel against his will... I think he had to pay to get down!!

Many other sights have been taken in including the river Nile, some mosques and the Citadel of Saladin (who was the nemisis of Richard the Lionheart during the Crusades) – this made me think of 'Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves' but more so of 'Robin Hood: Men in Tights'. I wandered the alleyways of Khan el-Khalili this morning a huge market bazaar selling everything under the sun – which reminded me of 'Aladdin'. And also passed by The American University In Cairo, which sounds like the less scary more cerebral sequel to 'An American Warewolf in London'.


Enjoyed Cairo despite getting lots of hassle, I think I need to sort out my rugged hardened traveler look, as opposed to the fresh off the plane innocent fear in my eyes gawp I'm currently sporting. With this in mind I've stopped shaving but think the resultant 'bum-fluff' makes me an even more obvious target! Fly to Bangkok tomorrow and looking forward to the change of scenery.